Manchester: home of the halal Sunday roast
Hipster hangouts, bold-flavoured Pakistani grills and high-end steakhouses all offer their takes on a great British tradition
Entwined with royal history and religious observance, there are few meals as quintessentially English as the Sunday roast. The tradition was introduced during the reign of King Henry VII as a celebratory meal eaten after sabbath church services, marking the end of fasting that began on Fridays. Almost 300 years later, during the industrial revolution, it became the spread we know today, when families left a joint of meat and potatoes in the oven to slow cook while they worshipped.
Church attendance may have decreased in recent times, but the Sunday roast remains a devoutly observed custom. So, when I had heard from friends and colleagues about the popularity of halal versions in Manchester, I had to investigate, in the name of both British patriotism and my own faith.
Located in the hip Northern Quarter, Evelyn’s has been serving halal Sunday roasts with all the trimmings for more than 10 years. With an open kitchen, large mismatched wooden tables, plants both potted and suspended from the ceiling, the dining room has an industrial chic vibe that would not be out of place in Brooklyn or Copenhagen.
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Roasts are served every Sunday from 12pm. Diners can choose from the slow-roast rump of beef in a mustard rub (£24), harissa buttermilk chicken (£19.90) or lamb in a Moroccan marinade (£23), all served with seasonal vegetables, gravy and Yorkshire pudding.
The chicken was moist and flavoursome, with a crisp skin, though I couldn’t really pick up on the harissa and did need to add salt. The lamb is served quite rare, so if you prefer your meat medium or well done, it’s probably best to opt for the chicken or beef, which was clearly a popular choice. The potatoes, however, were a huge hit — crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and, along with the towering Yorkshire pudding, great carby vehicles for the rich, dark gravy.
Zouk Tea Bar and Grill is a popular Pakistani restaurant in the city’s university district. With an outdoor terrace, a flower wall and aesthetic mocktails its an entirely different vibe to Evelyn’s — less Williamsburg loft and more sophisticated international hotel, with plush chairs, pristine tables, high ceilings and elegant lighting.
The roast platter for two includes a chicken, roast lamb and topside of beef — yes, all three of them — served with seasonal vegetables, roast potatoes, spiced gravy and Yorkshire pudding for £60. The price, not unreasonably, doubles to £120 for four people. Both options are ideal for pairs or groups who want to try a bit of everything. The crisp, juicy and confidently spiced chicken and meltingly soft lamb stood out over the slightly overdone beef for me. The potatoes could also have offered more crunch, but the gravy, spiked with sliced fresh chilli and peppercorns, brought a pleasing depth to the meal. All told, solid value at £30 per head.
Next on my Manchester halal roast circuit came Cona. This luxury halal steakhouse offers artisanal cuts of beef at prices in excess of £400. Fortunately, for those of us who are seeking a special meal in fancy surroundings but don’t have that kind of budget, its three-course Sunday lunch menu comes in at a reasonable £45 and the two-course option, which consists of any main, plus a starter or dessert, at £40.
The restaurant is located in Ancoats, a vibrant area brimming with industrial heritage and a great independent dining scene. The interior looks like a minimalist gallery — limewashed walls, marble tables and statement light fittings. The three-course menu includes starter options of wagyu lasagna, king prawn tempura, truffle tagliolini and San Marzano rigatoni. The lasagna was decadent and rich and the rigatoni creamy and moreish, with the premium tomatoes making a significant contribution. The mains include corn-fed chicken, salt marsh lamb and dry-aged beef fillet, all served with Yorkshire pudding, wagyu fat roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
The chicken was the standout for me, perfectly seasoned, moist and delicately crisped. The beef was also expertly handled, with just the right amount of silky rendered fat. The potatoes were flawless, with a nicely meaty depth to the craggy exterior and pillowy inside. My only criticism is that the gravy was dominated by a sweet note that I couldn’t quite place. Personally, I would have preferred a peppercorn sauce or an even spicier option.
The dessert menu included chocolate fondant with salted caramel ice cream, pistachio bakewell tart with pistachio ice cream, sticky toffee pudding and blueberry cheesecake. The bakewell was a lighter take on the British classic, enhanced by the matching ice cream. The blueberry cheesecake consisted of a thin biscuit base, topped with a thick creamy layer and balanced by a tart compote. For such a high-end spot, £45 for three courses, all using top-tier ingredients, seems pretty good to me.
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Leaning heavily into British traditions while in Manchester, there was only one way to finish: a classic afternoon tea. Cloud 23 — situated on the 23rd floor of Beetham Tower in the central Deansgate area — gives a fantastic view of the city and will happily meet halal dietary requirements with 24 hours’ notice.
The afternoon tea selection (£35 per person) features sandwiches including beef brisket, roast chicken thigh, hot-smoked salmon, coronation chicken, cucumber and cream cheese, and curried mango and lime. It also comes with scones, both plain and a granny smith apple and cinnamon version, plus a unique homemade Vimto jam.
The desserts are inspired by many of the buildings you can see from the window: a terrific Trafford Centre goats curd cheesecake with caramelised fig and ginger; a Science and Industry Museum honey basil mousse; Manchester Town Hall tart with raspberry custard and coconut; and a winning Etihad Complex dark chocolate cake with salted caramel popcorn. With unlimited tea and coffee, plus that skyline vista, it was a fitting end to a delicious northern getaway.
