Skip the bubble tents and experience Bedouin life in Jordan’s Wadi Rum
Embrace traditional desert living in a cinematic landscape with sunrise treks, star gazing and a little light camel herding
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The first time I heard of Jordan was through the movies. As a kid in Mumbai, India, I watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade with my mum, mesmerised by the pink hues of the Treasury building in Petra. Decades later, I found myself in a cinema again but this time with my own kids, sharing buckets of popcorn watching The Martian. When I got home and looked up the filming location, the connection hit me — both films had transported me to Jordan, even before I ever set foot there.
So, when the opportunity to visit finally came, I knew I couldn’t pass up the chance to explore Jordan’s vast desert landscapes. Wadi Rum, with its towering limestone and granite mountains rising from shifting sands of yellow, white and red, stretches almost 280 square miles in the southern part of the country. But its history runs far deeper than Hollywood’s lens. Archaeological evidence suggests people have lived here for nearly 12,000 years, and the Bedouins who call this desert home today are descendants of the nomadic herders who once roamed the Arabian Peninsula.
According to Jordan’s Ministry of Tourism, more than six million people visited the country in 2023 (up 26% since 2022), with some 300,000 of them drawn to the otherworldly landscapes of Wadi Rum. This has led to a boom in accommodation, ranging from locally run Bedouin camps to high-end, climate-controlled bubble tents. While these futuristic pods offer luxury in the heart of the desert, they often strip away the raw, immersive experiences that allow travellers to truly connect with a place. What I remember most isn’t indulgence but authenticity — staying in a traditional camp, engaging with the community and experiencing the Bedouin way of life in a way no luxury hotel could replicate.
“To the people who have lived here for generations, Wadi Rum isn’t just a destination. It is our way of life and these landscapes tell our story,” says Ahmad Mara’yeh. In 2015, Mara’yeh and his co-owners, Hasan Mara’yeh and Falah Zawaideh, established Rum Planet Camp, a Bedouin-owned and operated halal-friendly accommodation with 15 double tents in the heart of Wadi Rum. “Tourists who travel far and spend money to visit the desert deserve more than just a lavish stay. They deserve an experience that reflects the land’s spirit and history.” I couldn’t agree more. Jacuzzis and swimming pools can be found anywhere, but the desert’s silence, its rugged beauty, and the traditions of people like Mara’yeh are what leave a lasting impression.
Bedouin tribes lived in the desert long before modern conveniences came about, and their naturally sustainable way of life is deeply intertwined with the land, animals and each other. Mara’yeh’s camp uses locally sourced materials such as wood and stones that blend with the landscape. Handcrafted furniture, often made from goat hair and sheep wool, reflects the colours, patterns and textures of the desert. The rectangular black and white tents are made from goat hair fibres and have windows that invite in a cooling breeze on hot summer days, while hot water bottles and piles of woollen blankets provide warmth in colder months.
Beyond decor, the camp itself connects two worlds. On one side, visitors arrive eager to immerse themselves in the culture. On the other, the area’s families share their traditions, and livelihoods are entwined into every aspect of the experience. The rugs beneath your feet? Handwoven by local women. The bread you taste? Baked fresh before your eyes over an open fire. The camels you ride? Not just animals but family members with long ancestral lineages.
One morning, I set out to watch the sunrise with Abu Ragheb, a camel herder who knows each of his animals not just by name but by personality, attitude and even behaviour. For him, they are not just a means of transportation but family, carrying with them generations of history, which he shared with me over steaming cups of Bedouin tea made with sage, mint, cardamom and cinnamon when we took a break from exploring the caverns in the mountains. On my return a traditional breakfast of shrak (flatbread), hummus and fresh dates was waiting. In fact all meals at Rum Planet camp represent the food culture of the tribes, like zarb (meat and vegetables cooked in an underground oven), mansaf (Jordan’s national dish) and maqlubah.
Unlike luxury bubble camps that often accommodate 100 or more guests, Rum Planet Camp maintains a smaller footprint, housing no more than 20 to 30 visitors at a time. Conscious of the region’s water scarcity, the camp incorporates rainwater collection, solar panels and native plants that require little to no irrigation. While the stay may seem modest, thoughtful experiences like sharing a meal with a Bedouin family or learning about camel husbandry from herders really help you understand the people who have called Wadi Rum home for generations.
“Foreign investors see Wadi Rum as an opportunity for commercial gain by setting up extravagant bubble tents and luxury lodges. But we focus on preserving culture and sharing hospitality,” Mara’yeh notes. It’s not just about showcasing the beauty of the place but also about sustaining the community. Every Jordanian dinar spent directly supports local families, helping preserve traditions in a rapidly modernising world. You leave with more than just memories; you gain a deeper understanding of a culture often misrepresented by the media. For Mara’yeh and his family, success isn’t measured in financial gain but in the quality of the hospitality they provide. Even if only one guest arrives, they are welcomed with the same warmth and care as if the camp were full. “Because for us, sharing our culture one story, one night, one star at a time is what truly matters.”
One unforgettable night, the sky was full of shining stars. Instead of relying on a phone app to identify constellations, Zawaideh taught me to read the sky as his ancestors had for centuries — using the stars to locate other celestial bodies and navigate the vast desert. That experience has stayed with me, sparking a deep desire to return and learn more. And that is exactly what the team at Rum Planet Camp strives for. “When someone feels the need to come back, when they say they belong here, that’s when we know we’ve succeeded in sharing our story,” explains Mara’yeh.
Safety is also a concern that weighs on some people’s minds. “We know when people hear ‘Middle East’ they get scared,” Mara’yeh acknowledges. “But here, guests are our responsibility. Their safety is more important than ours and we would give our lives for them.” Jordan, he emphasises, is a country defined by warmth and hospitality and is a place where travellers are welcomed, not feared.
Bedouin culture is also built on generosity. Welcoming strangers as if they were family isn’t just a romanticised notion — it’s a way of life here. Even when resources are scarce, a Bedouin host will give whatever they have to make a guest feel welcome, even if it means offering their last meal. “You don’t find this kind of generosity in the west,” Mara’yeh adds without hesitation.
Some places just leave a mark on your soul and no matter how much time passes they pull you back like an invisible thread. For me, Wadi Rum is one of those places. I still remember the warmth of shared tea by the fire, the laughter while running up and down the soft red sand, and the quiet wisdom of the stars overhead. In a world where fear and division dominate the headlines, this desert tells a different story — one of connection, generosity and understanding. “And the truth is that if people truly connect with each other, they will accept each other,” adds Mara’yeh.
Tents for two people at Rum Planet Camp start from £110 plus tax, per night, with breakfast and dinner included. The best time to go is March to May or October to November, when temperatures are cooler.
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