A halal food adventure in Cape Town

Home to an inventive and characterful culinary culture, South Africa is also one of the world’s most halal-friendly non-Muslim countries

Two dishes of food from Happy Uncles
The Happy Uncles’ maqluba, featuring braised lamb shoulder with puffed wild rice, turnip and butternut squash (left) and linefish ceviche with shatta aioli, tiger prawn and spinach (right). Photographs courtesy of The Happy Uncles

Back in 2016, I visited South Africa for the first time. While there, I spent a delightful few days in Knysna. Often referred to as the “jewel of the Garden Route”, this picturesque town is a must-see for anyone making the famed road trip from Mossel Bay in Western Cape province to the mouth of the Storms River in the east. 

Like many visitors, I took an excursion to Featherbed Nature Reserve, reached by a 20-minute boat ride on gentle waters with seal-spotting opportunities along the way. Back on land, a two-hour walk offered ancient caves, lush greenery and stunning sea views. The trip ended with a buffet lunch in the reserve’s outdoor restaurant. 

Slumping into my seat, I braced myself for the lacklustre vegetables, limp salads and overcooked pasta so often palmed off on those of us who end up reluctantly following a vegetarian diet, owing to a lack of halal food. 

Imagine my shock when I was informed by the waiter that the ostrich cottage pie was halal, along with all the chicken dishes. Out of curiosity and appreciation that I had the choice, I went for the cottage pie. The potatoes were creamy and crisp while the meat was tender, juicy and more like beef than chicken. Over the rest of the holiday, I realised that diverse halal options would be the norm, not the exception. 

With stiff competition from Singapore, South Africa is one of the most halal-friendly non-Muslim countries in the world. I’ve visited five times now and am continually impressed by the quality and variety of the cuisine — and the fact that I can eat most of it. Often, when travelling, halal dining options are limited to Turkish kebabs and South Asian curries. While I enjoy both, the chance to experience the local cuisine of a country I’m visiting without restriction is a true joy. 

From the braai-ready marinated chicken at Woolworths — South Africa’s premium supermarket chain and everything M&S and Waitrose would like to be — to wagyu steaks in metropolitan fine-dining restaurants and a profusion of halal fast food (all Burger King and KFC stores use halal-certified chicken), there is something for every taste and budget. 

In February 2025 I decided to make the most of the final weeks of my maternity leave and the last of South Africa’s summer with a month in Cape Town.

Sitting on 1,800 hectares between St Helena Bay and Velddrif on the Cape’s west coast, L.A. Farms is a family business that uses sustainable practices to ensure that its grass-fed, free range lamb, Angus and wagyu beef is of the highest quality. Its site in the Green Point area of Cape Town includes a specialist butcher and restaurant, both fully halal. The menu includes signature dishes such as the wagyu brisket burger (255 rand or £11) and Angus seekh kebabs (£4.60), wagyu and angus steaks, all served with wagyu tallow fries. 

Occupying a striking building in Cape Town’s Waterfront area, Conscious Carnivores is another restaurant and meat vendor. Downstairs is dedicated to the deli and butchery, where exotic fruits, healthy homemade desserts and premium cuts are all on sale. Upstairs is the dining area, where guests can order anything from piri piri chicken (£6.70) to spicy trinchado beef (£7.15) and pepper-crusted fillet burgers (£7.15). 

I loved the ladies fillet steak (£11.40), which was cooked to succulent perfection, but the beautifully presented mocktails — too often an overpriced, ice-filled afterthought — deserve centre stage. My passionfruit mojito (£2.50) was a delicious balancing act of zesty lime, refreshing mint and rich passion fruit pulp.  

Tea,  cake and koesiesters at Faeeza’s Home Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa.
Tea, cake and koesiesters at Faeeza’s Home Kitchen in Cape Town. Artwork by Hyphen. Photograph by Zaynab Asaadi

If you want something more upscale, try chef Anwar Abdullatief’s The Happy Uncles. South Africa’s first fully halal fine-dining restaurant opened its doors in 2021. Diners can choose from a four (£36), six (£44) or eight-course (£63) menu, with a curated tea pairing at £3. All guests are served a complimentary glass of sparkling non-alcoholic wine sourced from the Western Cape’s renowned vineyards. 

The restaurant’s summer menu is a homage to Palestine with a bread course of ka’ak al-quds served with hummus creme caramel and date honey, followed by a From the River to the Sea course of line fish ceviche with shatta aioli, tiger prawn and spinach. For the main course, a unique take on maqluba features braised lamb shoulder served with puffed wild rice, turnip and butternut squash. The lamb was meltingly tender, spiced with cardamom and cumin, while the rice provided a crisp textural contrast. A wonderful experience and great value.

For the authentic taste of Cape Town, head to the historic Bo-Kaap neighbourhood. There you can appreciate the influence the Muslim Cape Malay community has had on the city’s cuisine. WIth many residents descended from enslaved or exiled Muslims from Indonesia — then known as the Dutch East Indies — the food is fruity, full-bodied, sweet, savoury and tangy. Signature dishes include the spiced tomato stew bredie, bobotie — an egg and minced meat dish that defies easy explanation — and frikkadel meatballs. All are delicious.

The long-established Biesmiellah and Bo-Kaap Kombuis restaurants should be on all travellers’ bucket lists. Those wishing for a more hands-on experience can take a cooking class at Faeeza’s Home Kitchen. If you’re short on time, you can still stop by for tea, traditional samoosas and koesisters — a doughnut-like treat, infused with spice and naartjie peel — in the beautiful shaded tea garden. 

Back on the Waterfront, I discovered Barakat, a food stall in Africa’s first Time Out Market. Operated by The Happy Uncles’ Abdullatief and his celebrity chef wife Yolani Abrahams, it offers contemporary takes on traditional favourites, including masala steak samoosas (50p), slow-cooked beef shin with nutmeg and cloves wrapped in cabbage (£6.30) and butter chicken (£6). 

Initially, I was sceptical that a food stall could pull off the flair and sophistication Barakat aims for, but each dish is packed with flavour and plated beautifully. I should have known better. Delicious, honest and inventive food is what South Africa does best. That’s why I’m already planning my next visit.  

Topics

Get the Hyphen weekly

Subscribe to Hyphen’s weekly round-up for insightful reportage, commentary and the latest arts and lifestyle coverage, from across the UK and Europe

This form may not be visible due to adblockers, or JavaScript not being enabled.