This season is serving florals with a twist
Styles from across the runways to modest fashion dovetail with another of the year’s biggest trends: regencycore
Spring is officially here, and that can only mean one thing: florals. Groundbreaking, I know, but there’s a reason you can count on designers to send flower-printed fabrics down the runway as part of their spring/summer shows every year. Put simply, it works.
This season designers served florals with a twist. Some went big and bold, but my personal favourites were looks that dovetailed with another of the year’s biggest trends: regencycore, blending the classical elegance of the period — 1795-1837 — with modern design.
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Empire silhouettes (a high-waisted dress fitted below the bust), puffed sleeves, corsets, pearls and ribbons are all key to the look, demonstrated by brands such as Selkie with their puff-sleeve and corset dresses. Yet regencycore is also surprisingly modest-fashion-friendly because of its focus on long, flowing, fabrics.
This floor-skimming meadow green dress from Maya Deluxe ticks all the right boxes: floral embroidery, tulle ruffles and an empire silhouette, while this pastel-hued embellished sequin maxi from the brand is perfect for a spring wedding.
Regencycore has taken off alongside the release of director Emerald Fennel’s (bad) re-imagining of Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights — Selkie even released a Heathcliff collection in a nod to the gothic novel. Netflix’s Regency romance drama Bridgerton also returned in February with its fourth season, continuing the resurgence of the extravagance of opulent, romantic styles. Both the film and series employ creative licence with the storytelling and the fashions of the period, exaggerating colours and fabrics to appeal to the modern viewer.
The blend of regency-inspired fashion and floral designs were all over the SS26 runways from Milan to London. Erdem’s SS26 collection, on show at London Fashion Week in September, was inspired by Hélène Smith’s romantic cycles, in reference to the 19th-century medium’s multiple past lives she claimed to have lived. The collection featured intricate floral embroidery on jewel-toned fabrics finished with whimsical exaggerated bows on shoes, and updated versions of its iconic Bloom Bag with a distinctive flower-stem handle.
Simone Rocha, a designer known for her subversive romanticism, showcased delicate and sheer floral organzas over crinolines, oversized satin flower appliqués, and even accessorised a number of looks with fresh lily stems. Giambattista Valli also channelled soft femininity in voluminous puffball dresses, pastel fabrics and shoes finished with pink roses.
To close out the SS26 season at Paris Fashion Week in February, Dior embraced the period-drama romanticism and florals in both its ready-to-wear and haute couture collections. The former saw models sent down the runway in billowing sheer dresses, floral-puffball skirts, oversized bows and even more oversized flower shoes.
At the latter, flowers quite literally took centre stage, as the runway itself was turned into an upside down garden, with pink and white blooms quietly falling from the ceiling. Here, spring florals offered a chance for designer Jonathan Anderson to showcase his craftsmanship, weaving flowers into delicate sheer lace dresses and adorning models’ ears with headpieces made from blossoms and ribbons.
Mugler, Ferragamo, and Hermès’ SS26 shows all reimagined corset dresses in lace, satin and leather, offering up a darker, more rebellious take on the period look. On the high street, brands such as Ganni, Damson Madder, and Hansen & Gretel embody a more approachable take on the trend. For spring, try Ganni’s pale-eggshell-blue Gathered Taffeta Maxi Dress or Reformation’s Balia Linen Dress in a popular pale-yellow-parmesan colour.
For modest dressers looking for a spring outfit fit for a duchess, this floral lace abaya set from Bayt El Hayat, a London-based modestwear company, features a slip dress, open outer abaya and matching scarf, all with intricate lace detailing across the hems. It also offers lightweight, flowing hijabs in coral pink and blush hues that are perfect for spring.
Meanwhile, Abayabuth has a wide range of floral abayas, including this sage-green style finished with dainty white-floral embroidery.
The ripple effect of the period drama has not been confined to fashion. Spring makeup looks are also taking inspiration from the regency era, particularly this year’s dewy cloud skin trend — a natural, soft-focus look with dramatic blush that appears as if you’ve just come back from a long walk in nature. Milk Makeup’s creamy Lip + Cheek stick comes in a range of 13 shades for a variety of skin tones, while e.l.f.’s Sheer for it Blush Tint offers a more sheer, long-lasting stain for the cheeks.
I’m off to buy some pastel-hued tulips and manifest weather warm enough to wear a dress in.
