The knitted balaclava: winter’s biggest trend is here to stay
The fluffy snood or woollen headscarf has gained popularity with every passing chilly season
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March may be just around the corner, but the interminable cold seems to be showing no signs of letting up, and neither does this winter’s biggest trend: the knitted balaclava. The item most commonly comes in the form of a fluffy snood or a woollen headscarf tied under the chin. I haven’t been able to step outside the house and walk 10 minutes without seeing at least three women stylishly bundled up looking like babushkas with iPhones.
The trend has been gaining traction in the past couple of years since perennial fashion icon Alexa Chung debuted her knitted blue and white version on Instagram in 2022, but it now seems that even those who were once on the fence about the item have been won over by its sheer practicality. Sure, you might look like an egg depending on how snug you choose to wear it, but is that really much of a price to pay for protection from the icy British winds? Speaking as someone who spent the past two winters living in Margate and being slapped in the face by North Sea winds: no. In fact, I’m waiting for the popularity of the trend to continue to grow until full-face Kneecap-style balaclavas become socially acceptable.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the balaclava is said to have originated in eastern Europe. In the 19th century, soldiers in the Crimean War used knitted head coverings to protect themselves against the bitter Ukrainian winter. The headgear was then named after the town, known for the 1854 Battle of Balaclava. The garment has since become a mainstay of a variety of armed forces, as well as winter sport enthusiasts.
While Raf Simons, Vetements and Gucci debuted balaclavas during their autumn/winter 2018 shows, it was the autumn/winter 2021 season that saw the thermal head covering take over the runway. Miu Miu showcased models stomping through snowy mountain landscapes in crocheted hoods with detachable face coverings, Jacquemus sent male models wearing full-face lilac balaclavas with brimmed caps down the catwalk, and Proenza Schouler styled Bella Hadid in a peplum top with a built-in balaclava.
The trend has gained popularity with every passing winter. Part of its appeal — aside from its obvious cosiness — is the variety of styles and patterns available, ranging from neutral and minimalistic to allover multicoloured prints, depending on how much of an outfit centrepiece you want yours to be. Harper’s Bazaar chalks up the trend to a “slow yet consistent return to glamour” inspired by Old Hollywood dressing. Think Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Jackie O and Sabrina Carpenter’s Pinterest moodboard. It’s also indicative of a growing trend towards fashion that meets at the intersection of practicality and style, rather than sacrificing one for the other.
The garment also fits in with the “craftcore” movement, an embrace of slower, handmade techniques. There are plenty of independent sellers making their own crocheted and knitted versions on Etsy and Depop. At this point in the trend’s cycle, you can find one anywhere from H&M to SSENSE, but this is an item where investing in a wool or cashmere version will make a world of difference — not only for ethical reasons, but because a polyester-blend head covering will no doubt give you a sweaty head.
As the woolly hoods have caught on, some have pointed to western double standards around head coverings. While understandable, I feel this criticism is misguided. I’ve never seen a hijabi wearing a thick, woolly hijab, nor one made out of puffer material — it would be deeply impractical and wouldn’t even meet modesty requirements. The debate evoked similar arguments from 2018, when brands such as Versace and Marine Serre faced a backlash for sending white, blue-eyed models down their runways in hijab-adjacent styles.
There is, of course, a hypocrisy in the west when it comes to women covering their heads. This isn’t owing to the type of head covering but rather the person whose head is being covered, and what that covering represents. It goes without saying that people who harbour prejudices against Muslims will react differently to a secular head covering from how they will to one worn for reasons of modesty or piety, but this ultimately is a reflection of wider racial and religious anxieties that exist outside the catwalk. It should be clear by now that it’s not worth looking to the fashion world for genuine representation or moral guidance.
So until spring has finally sprung, I’ll continue to wrap a puffy scarf around my head. While the cute little hoods are great for covering your neck and ears, I have a prominent Iranian nose and it needs an extra layer of protection from the cold. Perhaps next year’s big trend in winter dressing could be the nose warmer.
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