Dive into some flawless fish
Whether it’s a Kurdish-Iraqi grill in west London or a halal-friendly chippie in the West End, few things are a bigger treat than fresh seafood
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When people think of Middle Eastern and North African cuisine, mental images of creamy hummus and smoky aubergine starters tend to precede those of charred shish tawooq and aromatic lamb kebabs. Those more in the know may think about rich, meat-heavy rice dishes such as kabsa, mansaf, biryani, quzi and maqloubeh.
Far fewer consider fish and seafood. From the Mediterranean, Arabian and Red seas to the Persian Gulf, the entire region enjoys access to the ocean and its seafood specialities are among my favourite things to eat. That said, you also can’t go wrong with a classic British fish and chips every now and again. Here are a few of my favourite restaurants in London and beyond.
Masgouf is widely considered Iraq’s national dish and, as anyone who has had the privilege of tasting it can attest to, with good reason. It is traditionally made using freshwater carp which is butterflied, seasoned and grilled on an open fire. Basted with tamarind and pomegranate molasses, the fish is distinctly fleshy with a delicious sour note.
Bekhal, a no-nonsense Kurdish Iraqi restaurant in Greenford, west London, has channelled the spirit of masgouf into its grilled sea bass which is dusted with a house blend of spices including cumin, turmeric and paprika, and doused in lemon juice and pomegranate molasses. The sauce is so good it’ll have you grabbing handfuls of the freshly made bread it’s served with, alongside a crisp salad, for mop-up duty. This is the kind of dish that could easily convert fish sceptics and, at just £12, is amazing value for money.
Alexandria is a port city on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt, and a big hitter when it comes to seafood. A few establishments have popped up in the UK that attempt to replicate the atmosphere of the typically Alexandrian fishmonger-meets-restaurant. Among them are Samak in Willesden, north-west London, and Elhoot in Peterborough.
Elhoot’s owner has a passion for fish that comes through in the way he chats with patrons, gets a feel for their preferences and cooks up the dishes accordingly. He decided that, as an Iraqi, I would appreciate a tangy tamarind sauce for my butterflied seabass and that, as an East African Indian, my husband would do well with a spicy masala sauce coating his sea bream.
Prawns, lightly dusted with a paprika-laced batter, generously portioned and fried to perfection, are a necessary addition to any order and start at a very reasonable £9.99. The changing daily specials can all be grilled, fried, oven baked or cooked in that zingy masala sauce. Family platters also serve more than the suggested number on the menu. While Elhoot might not look like much from the outside, eating there is a true joy.
The small Persian Gulf state of Bahrain takes its name from the Arabic for “two seas”, so you know its fish is going to be good. Chic and intimate, Villa Mamas brings the best of the country’s cuisine to Chelsea. The menu features Bahraini staples such as chicken machboos (elegantly spiced poultry and rice) at £40 and mozat laham (slow-braised lamb shank) at £45, but seafood lovers are also in for a treat.
The Persian-influenced halibut sabzi (£45) is flawlessly grilled and succulent, served on fragrant rice and topped with an aromatic and herbaceous green sauce. Sayadieh — a classic Arab dish of tahini-drizzled fish on spiced rice and topped with caramelised onions — comes in prawn and seabass versions (£42). The rich nuttiness of the tahini sauce plays perfectly with the sweetness of the onions. The prawn croquettes (£16) make for a wonderful starter, made of dried and fresh seafood, fried to a golden crisp and served with a tangy pomegranate sauce.
On my last visit, I was also introduced to the khubus with mahwaya (£12), a delicious homemade bread served with a tangy sauce that includes salted anchovies, fennel, cumin, coriander and mustard seeds. Lacking the pungency of Asian fish sauces, it is like nothing I’ve ever tasted before — salty, herby and punctuated by the pop of fennel. A refreshing lemon and mint mocktail (£9.50) provided the ideal accompaniment. While on the pricier side, Villa Mamas is well worth saving for a special occasion.
No column on fish would be complete without paying homage to the much-loved British chip shop. Muslim diners know well the challenges that come with sourcing this world-famous national treasure without the beer batter favoured by so many restaurants nowadays, non-halal beef dripping or the risk of frying oil used to also cook pork products.
The Mayfair Chippy has recognised and addressed those problems, offering a clearly marked alcohol-free fish batter, frying in rapeseed oil and giving diners the option to request that their meals are cooked separately to avoid cross-contamination from non-halal items on the menu.
Its two central London branches, in Mayfair and Knightsbridge, have become very popular with tourists from the Gulf region. The Knightsbridge outpost is deceptively large with a spacious, light-flooded extension at the rear and elegant, checkerboard flooring, royal blue interiors and cosy booths. The fried cod or haddock comes with chips, mushy peas, tartare sauce and chip shop curry for £23.95. Given the portion size, postcode and setting, it’s an absolute steal.
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